When you think of New England and the sea, you might conjure up images of lobster boats working off the coast of Massachusetts, or scores of sailboats in Newport Harbor, or iconic Maine lighthouses. Chances are New Hampshire doesn't jump into your head. And really, why would it?
Glancing at a map of the United States, the Atlantic Coast of the northeast may appear to pass directly from Massachusetts to Maine. Move right along. Nothing to see here!
But New Hampshire does have an ocean shoreline. In fact, the southeast section of the state (where I lived for more than 20 years) is designated the Seacoast Region. At only 18 miles, New Hampshire's Atlantic coast may be short (the shortest oceanfront of any state) - but it's spectacular.
By the way, as if 18 miles isn't slight enough, the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration calculates it as a mere 13 miles. 18, 13....either way it's not a lot. It doesn't need to be, though. There's much to see.
You'll find rocky beaches, sandy beaches and promontories. There's a harbor (Rye), along with the entrance to another one (Portsmouth) at the point where the Piscataqua River's mouth meets the sea. There are four state parks. And there is history. For example: the transatlantic telegraph cable which traversed the ocean's floor first to Newfoundland and then all the way to Ireland was laid in 1874 at a spot near Jenness State Beach. Further north, Odiorne Point State Park is the site of the state's first English settlement (1623). There you'll also find the ruins of Second World War-era gun turrets.
Come to the shore to gaze out at the gulls or simply sit and listen to the water while you let your mind wander. Walk the beach, or one of the paths lined by hardy wild roses along Ocean Boulevard. Scramble over huge granite boulders in rugged sections where the sand retreats.
Like seafood? You'll find places to enjoy fresh catch just off the boat. During the dog days of summer, come here for relief; this far north the water is always cold. In the winter you might be treated to a glimpse of a snowy owl. On very cold winter mornings, sea smoke forms and hovers over the water.
I spent a lot of time along this Atlantic shore, camera in hand. There were three locations at which I liked to work - but most often you'd find me at a large tidal pool in Rye, usually at the beginning of the day. The start times in June and July were tough (out of bed at 3:30am to drive over, get set up and be ready to shoot by 4:15) and the temperatures in January were brisk, but oh how I enjoyed those mornings....and miss them.
There was almost never anyone around; it was just me at the water's edge and the lobster boats out on the ocean. Even when the conditions weren't conducive to making a photo, there was something special about the blissful solitude and the opportunity to watch darkness turn to light. Not a bad way to start the day.
So yes, Virginia, New Hampshire has a seacoast. And it's wonderful.
