The Greatest Show on Earth

October 10, 2024  •  Leave a Comment

The Big Lake Winnipesaukee New HampshireABOVE THE BIG LAKEThe landscape is awash in brilliant color at the height of foliage season. From the summit of Mount Major, Lake Winnipesaukee and the mountains beyond are visible.

Lakes Region, New Hampshire
With all due respect to P.T. Barnum, The Greatest Show on Earth isn't under the big top: rather, you'll find it in northern New England, right about now - and admission is free.

Step right in!

While the entire region is lovely this time of year, in my book it's hard to top the foliage extravaganza in New Hampshire. Truly a spectacle, this is something everyone should see at least once.

All the trees show off - there are no shrinking violets among this crowd - but it's the maples that are especially boisterous and bewitching. In their zeal to outdo one another, they produce a vibrant, fiery palette which will take your breath away.

Act One is set in the Great North Woods, way up near the Canadian border. The action continues in the White Mountains, followed by the Lakes and Monadnock Regions. The show closes in the Seacoast. 

If, like me, you're a fan of reds, two of the most reliable areas to see them are at Bretton Woods and along the shoreline of Chocorua Lake. 

While leaf peeping, there are plenty of other interesting things to see, like covered bridges, spectacular waterfalls and historic towns; lovely old churches with their white spires pointing skyward; the Flume Gorge in Franconia Notch State Park; and the historic Cog Railway, which will take you up to the summit of Mount Washington. (If you prefer, you can drive to the top; the Auto Road is located on the opposite side of the mountain.)

I recommend including the town of Jackson in your itinerary. It's a picturesque little resort area, but perhaps the biggest draw in October is the Return of the Pumpkin People, which this year celebrates its 40th birthday. Pick up a map in town at any participating business, at the Chamber, or you can download one. Vote for your favorite.

You're going to have a lot of company in the White Mountains, especially if you visit over the Columbus Day weekend. Get out early to avoid the crowds, and be strategic about when you choose to venture near North Conway. Traffic there backs up so badly it can feel a little like being stuck on I-95 trying to get into Boston during rush hour. 

As you're enjoying all the vibrant foliage, don't forget to look down. As the leaves begin to fall they create beautiful, thick carpets: there can be just as much color below as above. 

MAGIC CARPET RIDEMAGIC CARPET RIDEAt the height of foliage season in New England, the ground below is often as beautiful and colorful as the trees above.

Dover, New Hampshire

Each autumn I'm reminded of the evocative description of New Hampshire's foliage season, so beautifully penned by Donald Hall (the 14th poet Laureate of the United States and a longtime resident of the Granite State) in his book Seasons at Eagle Pond:

"Deep Autumn is a beautiful Godzilla, wildest of wild beasts. Abrupt shreds and edges of New Hampshire turn fauve, while most of the northern hemisphere remains vague, impressionist, and pretty. Here we become Van Gogh for the yellow of sunflowers, Gauguin for the skin of oak leaves rich and sensuous, Hans Hofmann for the loaded overloaded, dripping explosions or onslaughts of RED."

Indeed. The Greatest Show on Earth.

Home, sweet home.

Mist and Fog Over the PemigewassetWHISPERS IN WHITEPersistent drizzle and rain created both mist and fog, further saturating the beautiful autumnal colors

Pemigewasset River
Near Lincoln, New Hampshire
In Local News

The Pack Trail Fire (discovered in mid-September) and Fish Creek Fire (discovered in mid-August), both lightning-caused and burning in the Bridger-Teton National Forest southeast of Moran Junction in Grand Teton National Park, merged over last weekend. The former has grown to roughly 60,000 acres in size.

563 personnel are battling the blaze, which is 60% contained.

Air quality in Jackson Hole is extremely poor this week; the Tetons have often been completely hidden from view. While winds typically blow from the southwest, which would keep the smoke out of the valley, of late the air has been calm. As a result, the smoke settles and is trapped each night when the air cools.

A few days ago it was difficult to see the mountains on the Idaho side from the Teton Valley, too.

The weather pattern in the region continues to be high and dry. 

Next door to the Tetons, Yellowstone is winding down operations in preparation for the winter season. Most campgrounds are already closed, with the exception of Madison (October 19th).

The last day for regular vehicle traffic is October 31st, though the north entrance at Gardiner remains open throughout the year. 


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